In the late 1800's, Boca had 4,046 hectares of vines. By the 1950’s the vineyards of Boca had been overgrown by forest. In the 1990’s it was all but abandoned with less than 10 Ha.
Nebbiolo is known locally as Spanna is the most important grape of this region. About 16 years ago a crater was found indicating there was a super volcano in this region that exploded and imploded leaving behind volcanic rock in the vineyard. Over 16 years ago they found this crate. The ancient vineyards of Boca can be found in the woods. It takes a huge investment to reclaim these vineyards by removing the trees and finding the old vines.
Le Piane is owned by a Swiss wine merchant Christoph Künzli. He purchased the vineyards in 1998 from Antonio Cerri, who as 80 at the time and one of the last vigneron of the region. According to Christoph, this was one of the largest wine regions in Italy 2000 years ago. Everything was covered in vineyards. Pliny the Elder wrote that “everywhere there are vineyards.” This was one of the first Italian wine appellations affected by Phylloxera, over 4,000 Ha were lost. Today there are 12 producers in Boca.
One of the most notable historical things in Boca is the Maggiorina trellis system. Grapes were grown in this way for hundreds of years. Seeing these vines is like stepping back in time. The wines from these plants used to be field blends (grapes were picked at the same time). The plants here are about 100 years old which means that the yields are low (4,000 kg/Ha). Willows are used as posts, 3 plants grow toward the 4 pts of a compass. These grapes must all be tended by hand. These vines are organically grown. Le Piane produces a wine that carries the name “Maggiorina.” It contains 13 grape varietals and is a field blend.
Touring Le Piane is a special experience. I had an opportunity to get a tour of both the vineyard and the new cellar from Christoph Künzli. Getting to see the old Maggiorina vines was amazing for someone like me who likes to learn about wine from the ground up. Traveling through the vineyards there are dense forests nearby which Christoph stated are hiding the vineyards of the past. This is a wine region with so much history and potential. The work that they have ahead of them reclaiming the vines is a large undertaking but one I think will be a special thing to see.
Here are some of my thoughts on the wines from Le Piane…
Mimmo 2018 Vino Rosso is aged for 2 yrs in Slavonian oak using indigenous yeast. This wine is earthy with aromas of forest floor and floral notes. Christoph describes this as a perfect vintage in Boca.
Boca 2017 is 85% Spanna 15% Vespolina which is based on tradition. The wine is aged in Slovonian oak, fermented with natural yeast and spends two months on the skins! There is no fining nor filtering involved. The wine has notes of dried herb and cherry and the Vespolina adds spice to the blend. This wine needs ten years to age and will develop a balsamic note as it develops.
Boca is only made in the best years. In 2014, only the Maggiorina was made. I had an opportunity to taste the Boca from 2013 which is aging beautifully and is starting to show tertiary notes of mushroom and earth along with tart dried cherries.
Le Piane 2018 uses only the best bunches of Croatina from vines that are 100 year in age. This wine is aged for 2 years in large oak barrels. Le Piane has ripe flavors and is high in tannin and alcohol which is at 15% ABV. This ruby colored wine has ripe blackberry and black cherry flavors as well as tobacco and baking spice notes. It has high tannin and alcohol (at least 15% ABV).
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